E-Zigarette FAQ

On this page we will try to answer the most frequent asked questions and give you a lot of tips and tricks that you might need when you are starting your new life into vaping.

e-Cig user levels – stages of vaping

Please use this information to decide on the most appropriate e-cig product for your level of experience and knowledge.

It’s extremely important that you take time to understand what you’re doing and using in order to keep yourself and others safe.

In addition to the safety side of things, if you buy the right product first time round it will save you time and money, and avoid the frustration and disappointment of a mistaken purchase.

Level 1 – entry level (suitable for all users)

We have moved on from the basic cigalike device and devices now benefit from larger, longer-lasting batteries along with a larger tank to hold the e-liquid, although from 20 May 2017, 2ml will be the maximum size allowed due to the TPD regulations.

Because you will be buying the liquid separately you have the option to experiment with different e-liquid flavours and you are likely to notice more flavour and possible greater vapour production, depending on the liquid you use.

Often you’ll have a choice of different coil heads (the small heating element part which is inside the tank) which means you can begin to personalise your device to your preferences, by that we mean a hotter or cooler vape, or more or less vapour.

You will be able to recharge and reuse the battery time and time again, you will also use the clearomizer many times. The coil heads inside the clearomizer can also be used for several refills and on average these small disposable parts will last 1 to 2 weeks each.

At this level you will learn how to correctly fill the tank with liquid, and how to ensure you have sufficient liquid in the coil head before you use it (this is called “priming”).

You will learn how to turn your battery on and off (usually 5 clicks within 2 seconds) and you’ll be aware to turn the battery off to prevent accidental activation when it’s not in use. Don’t leave it on when it’s in your trouser pocket for example.

Understanding and carrying out some basic e-cig maintenance such as cleaning the battery connection area of excess moisture or e-liquid will ensure you maximise your e-cig’s life expectancy and performance.

Level 2 – intermmediate – variable devices (suitable for those with some experience, and careful vapers)

At this level you need to understand how to safely use a device which allows you to adjust the power output, as well as the temperature in some cases.

These devices are a little more complicated but provided the user takes the time to understand what they’re doing they are still fairly straight forward to use.

A variable device (whether it displays voltage or wattage settings) offers user features which provide a vaper with a whole new world of customisation. The battery is often more powerful, longer-lasting, and various different shapes, and because you can alter the power output (ie more or less watts), you have greater control over the temperature and the amount of vapour produced.

Be aware that some tanks at this level come with the option of standard resistance coils (ie 1.8 ohm) as well as sub-Ohm coils.

Standard coils fall within User Level 2, sub-Ohm coils (with a resistance of less than 1.0 Ohm) will, usually, come under User Level 3 as additional user knowledge is required in order to use the device safely.

Variable devices with high power outputs (which are very likely to be sub-Ohm anyway) will also come under User Level 3.

When using 1.0 Ohm + coils, the recommended e-liquid ratios are anything between 30-50%VG. When using sub-Ohm coils, the recommended e-liquid ratios are anything between 50-80% VG. 

Level 3 – sub-Ohm (advanced)

Finally we come to sub-Ohm vaping, the most extreme level of e-cig vaping.

Generally speaking only experienced vapers should consider opting for a device at sub-Ohm level, however, increasingly there are sub-Ohm devices coming onto the market which have been designed for less experienced users, and new vapers in some instances. They tend to have restricted features such as a one button operation and limited set power output, and you’ll see them described or marketed as an ‘all-in-one’ e-cig or vaping device. You still need to be aware that sub-Ohm coils are best suited to thicker liquid, lower nicotine levels and the vape is often a lot warmer and hitting harder than a device with standard resistance coils. From a safety and satisfaction point-of-view, it’s still important to read and be aware of the information below.

Sub-Ohm essentially means using a coil with an electrical resistance of less than 1.0 Ohm. There are some tanks that take standard resistance coils (ie 1.8 Ohm) as well as sub-Ohm coils. If you’re using a standard coil you’re not sub-Ohm vaping, but as soon as you’re using a coil with less than 1.0 Ohm you are sub ohm vaping.

Even if you’re using coils with a resistance of anything from, say 1.0 Ohm to 1.2 Ohm, do not use these on standard eGo batteries. Some batteries/brands can cope with lower resistances but others can’t and you’re unlikely to know the exact specification for your battery as the information isn’t generally available. DON’T RISK IT.

The attraction of sub-Ohming is massive clouds of vapour and superbly clear flavour. However, this level of vaping carries the highest risk with regard to staying safe.

Sub-Ohm tanks and coils must be used by experienced knowledgeable users as additional safety precautions should be practiced when using these items.

Sub-Ohm coils need to work on a mechanical mod or a regulated mod capable of firing at sub-Ohm resistances. This means if you have a 0.5 Ohm coil, your device (the battery/power supply) must be capable of firing at 0.5 Ohm resistance, or lower.

It is absolutely essential that the user understands how to stay safe when using these items because an awful lot of power is being pulled from very powerful (high amp) batteries.

A low powered battery on the wrong coil can very easily overheat, catch fire and/or explode!

If you’re using a regulated mod, you must ensure it can cope with the amps.

Ensure you avoid cheap multi-meters for measuring your resistances.

At this level you will also understand that you must use temperature control coils with a temperature control device, and you will need to ensure you’re in the correct ‘mode’ in order for the coils to work correctly.

You will know or have a very good idea which nicotine strength to use in the different devices (maximum 6mg in most cases) and you will also know the VG ratio likely to be most suited to the device in question. This is particularly relevant to sub-Ohm devices coils. Sub-Ohm coils need a high, or higher, VG ratio to avoid leaking, gurgling and other issues.

In addition, sub-Ohm vaping usually involves a different smoking technique, direct lung inhale, as opposed to mouth to lung inhale.

DO NOT PURCHASE a sub-Ohm device if you don’t know your limitations and you don’t truly understand how to stay safe. 

Level 4 – RBAs, RDAs, RTAs – building your own coils (advanced)

Rebuildable atomizers and their coils and wicks have known risks and therefore such devices and their sundries are for expert users only and should not be purchased by users with insufficient knowledge on how to stay safe.

  • A rebuildable coil/wick must be tested carefully with a meter to ensure it is safe to use
  • Tests must be carried out to ensure there are no shorts and the resistance isn’t too low
  • New coils and wick units must be tested and then used first on a strong basic electrical APV that has short circuit protection
  • No new coil/wick assembly should be used on an electronic device until known to be safe
  • Faulty wicks and coils can and will blow electronic devices, and they can cause personal injury

Which One is Right for You?

Ultimately it’s your choice, but if you’re new or fairly new to e-cigs, we recommend to start with something from level 2.

For those willing to read their instruction manual, watch a Youtube video and take the time to fully understand what they’re doing and how their device works, then level 3 can be considered.

Best eliquid for ecig coils and harsh PG and smooth VG ingredients explained

If you’re new to vaping, we understand it’s very confusing, but hopefully this page will help you.

You may need to have some patience to experiment with different flavours, and if you have a variable voltage/wattage or temperature control device, you will find that more or less power (heat) is required to get the best out of any particular eliquid.

Achieving the best flavour mainly depends on the temperature the liquid (and flavourings) are heated to, but different e-liquids can taste a little different depending on the coils you’re using. You may be disappointed with the flavour in one of your tanks, but it may taste great if you have other type you can try it with.

if you don’t know which coil you have, look at it closely (you may need a magnifying glass) as it is usually written on them in very small writing. You’ll be looking for something like 1.8ohm. 

Coils above 1.0 ohm

If you’re just getting to grips with vaping, and you’re using a standard type of coil, it’s ideal to start with a 50/50 eliquid. When we say standard coil, we mean the likes of the Innokin T18 or T18E 1.5 ohm or 2.0 ohm, Aspire Nautilus 1.8ohm, Aspire BVC 1.8ohm, various Kanger coils 1.5ohm, 1.8ohm etc. 

Coils less than 1.0 ohm (sub-Ohm)

Generally suited to anything from 50% VG right through to max VG. The lower the resistance of the coil, the greater amount of VG can be used. There is no one simple answer to this, even though VG has a certain thickness to it, the flavourings have their own viscosity and optimum heating temperatures, so it’s about experimenting until both you and your device are happy.

For 1.0ohm coils start with 50% VG and use that as a guide for next time.

For 0.8/0.6ohm coils start with 60% VG or 70% VG and use that as a guide.

For 0.5ohm coils start with 70% VG and use that as a guide.

Just try a small amount until you know how your coil/device is performing with your particular juice flavour/blend.

You really need to be looking at the thicker (and often dearer) juices at this level to avoid leaks and performance issues. 

All e-liquid for sub-Ohm vaping

Remember, if you’re not a sub-Ohm vaper, you will probably be disappointed if you buy thicker VG eliquids because they’re designed for sub-Ohm coils and greater power output, and more heat. It’s likely you won’t experience the full flavour with the likes of a standard 1.8Ω coil.

Throat hit

The higher PG liquids usually have a sharper throat hit. That ‘kick’ at the back of the throat is stronger in eliquids that have more PG than VG, although of course it depends on the nicotine strength you choose.


eLiquid with a higher VG content tends to provide a smoother vape and diminished throat hit. VG doesn’t carry the flavour quite as well as PG but but this can be countered by using more power to produce more vapour.

eLiquid blends

70% PG / 30% VG: This blend is higher in PG and it’s best for those who enjoy a more intense flavour and throat hit with low to moderate vapour clouds.

50% PG / 50% VG: The middle ground between throat hit and vapour

70% VG / 30% PG: VG gives a smoother inhale with a lot more vapour 

Nicotine levels

0mg / 0% – zero nicotine content, vaping for enjoyment not nicotine addiction

3mg / 0.3% – either for very light smokers or for dripping with high VG liquid

6mg / 0.6% – for low level smokers of light cigarettes

12mg / 1.2% – for low level smokers of standard cigarettes

18mg / 1.8% – for 20+ a day smokers of standard cigarettes 

Airflow control

If you have a device with adjustable airflow, it helps to bear in mind the following:

Greater airflow = more clouds (more vapour)

Less airflow = fewer clouds (less vapour) = more flavour

With lesser airflow you are inhaling a greater concentration of vapourised liquid. When you increase the air flowing through it increases the volume of the vapour and usually diminishes the flavour. 

Sub ohm vaping

If you’re using sub ohm coils (coils of less than 1.0 ohm) remember you’re very likely to want to use low nicotine strength e-liquid with a higher VG. Remember, the greater the nicotine strength and the more PG in your liquid it is likely to hit far too hard for most vapers. 

Avoid dry hits

When you’re using cotton coils, it’s very important to ensure the coil is thoroughly saturated in e-liquid to avoid dry hits (to avoid the cotton inside the coil getting burnt). The burning releases unhealthy chemicals, a bit like burnt toast, and although different chemicals are produced/released, neither are considered good and should be avoided.

Main ingredients in e-liquid

You will find different e-liquid manufacturers have different ingredients and mix ratios in their products. The most common base ingredients in e-liquid are propylene glycol (PG) and vegetable glycerine (VG). The base liquid is used to produce the vapour that looks like smoke and it acts as a delivery agent to carry the flavour and the nicotine.

There are 3 main groups of ingredients:
– Base liquid (PG and/or VG)
– Nicotine
– Flavourings (natural and artificial) 

Here’s a quick summary of propylene glycol versus vegetable glycerine: 

Propylene glycol (PG)

Propylene glycol provides the best throat hit and it’s thinner than vegetable glycerine. It doesn’t make quite such thick vapour, but it doesn’t leave behind as much residue as VG. This means the atomiser or coil head (the bit that gets hot and heats up the liquid) doesn’t have to work so hard so it tends to last longer.

Vegetable glycerine (VG)

VG makes for a sweeter vape which creates more vapour and it has a thicker consistency. The advantage of using vegetable glycerine as the predominant base in e-liquid is because as it has a thicker composition it makes for a denser and more realistic-looking vapour.

VG tends to have a sweeter taste but generally delivers less of the ‘throat-hit’ than PG-based liquids. Users who like a thicker vapour may prefer VG-based liquids. VG, being thicker, does mean it’s less prone to leaking.

Top tips for best flavour for vapers

If you’re not quite getting what you want out of vaping and your e-liquid in terms of the taste and flavour, this page will give you some really helpful pointers.

Everyone seems to be talking about cloud-chasing but isn’t flavour-chasing just as important?

Here’s hoping this will help you find that fabulous ‘sweet spot’.

e-Liquids for best flavour

Excluding the flavouring in e-liquid, which won’t normally be more than 10-15%, most e-liquids contain PG and VG in varying amounts. These base fluids affect the thickness, taste, flavour and the throat hit.

This subject is covered extensively in one of our other articles e-liquid blends but here’s a quick overview.

Sub-Ohm cloud-chasers tend to use high VG juices because they produce a lot more vapour, but these clouds are often produced at the expense of flavour.

VG, which makes the clouds, is almost tasteless and smooth to vape but it doesn’t carry flavour as well as the thinner PG ingredient.

PG normally gives more flavour, however, it’s also responsible for more throat hit so be mindful to keep your nicotine low enough that the hit you get isn’t too harsh on your throat.

A mix of 50/50, half and half, can be the ideal choice (for standard e-cig users) as it strikes a happy medium between flavour and vapour, however, again for standard users, and by that we mean those using anything from a 1.5Ω – 2.5Ω coil in their e-cigarette, but for even more flavour consider 70% PG e-liquids.

Adjust the airflow for more flavour

A lot of vapers underestimate the importance of adjusting the airflow when it comes to flavour. Generally when there’s more air going through the coil the vapour isn’t as dense but it will produce a load of vapour clouds, but this also diminishes the flavour.

Those chasing more flavour should try gradually closing off the airflow, assuming you have one, not all devices do. The less air going through allows for a denser and warmer vape with more flavour.

If your close your airflow down too much, it will reduce the vapour but it could also make it hotter than you want.

The type or design of airflow can affect the flavour

As well as the amount of air flowing through, the position of the airflow holes also make a difference.

Air holes on many tanks allow air to the side of the coil and this is perfectly fine but it doesn’t always work as well as air underneath the coil which then has a direct path up to the mouthpiece and often improves the flavour.

The wicking material in the coil makes a difference to the taste

The wicking material and wire inside the coil does affect the flavour of your juice.

The coil is the little part inside the tank where the liquid is, and its job it to heat up rapidly when required.

Silica material used to be the standard wick type inside a coil, but both cotton and ceramic wicking has now become popular as it helps to enhance the flavour.

Also inside the coil resting nice and cosy with the wicking are various types of metal wires in various guises, including kanthal, stainless steel, nickel and titanium.

Kanthal is still the most commonly used wire and it gives a good clean flavour.

With the introduction of temperature control comes the likes of nickel (Ni200), stainless steel and titanium. Nickel performs as well as Kanthal in flavour terms, but you may find certain stainless steel and titanium coils present a slightly metallic taste.

Mouthpiece / drip tip style and size

The size and shape of your mouthpiece can make a difference to the flavour you experience, although less so than adjusting your airflow or settings.

Those wanting to produce the clouds of vapour tend to use wide bore (bigger/wider hole) mouthpieces which are designed to produce a more airier vape, which is good if you want more vapour and a cooler vape, but not if you want more flavour.

If you’re using a tank with a wide-bore mouthpiece/drip tip, you can try switching it for a standard narrow bore one to boost your flavour. Don’t expect a massive difference, but it can make some difference.

Adjust your power settings if you have them

If you have a variable device of any kind, simply adjusting your settings up or down is the simplest way to alter the flavour and taste of your e-liquid.

Because different flavourings in your juice vapourise at different temperatures, you’ll find different elements of the flavour come out at different voltage/wattage (or temperature) settings.

Your setting, in conjunction with the electrical resistance of your coil, dictates how fast and how hot the coil gets.

Always start with lower settings and work your way up until you reach what’s called the ‘sweet spot’.

All e-liquid flavours have their own unique sweet spot so take your time to experiment when you start out with new flavours.

It helps to start with e-liquid blends that are generally most suitable for the type of coil in your tank, by that we mean choose one that’s not too thick if you’re using a standard coil, and if you’re using a sub-Ohm coil, avoid very thin liquids.

For any one type of liquid, you may find it really shines at 30W and while you may expect another to be stunning at a similar range, you could find it takes off at 20W. This trial and error is all part of the fun of vaping!

If you have a temperature control device (with the appropriate coils for TC mode), you have an added advantage because you can control the temperature which means you’re controlling the temperature of the coil, and the heat in the coil affects the flavour.

Again you just need to experiment with your settings, starting on the low side and work up towards finding that sweet spot.

Mouth to lung or direct lung inhaling

If you’ve heard the terms mouth to lung and direct lung inhaling, and if you’ve wondered quite what that means and what the differences are, here’s an overview of the two different styles of vaping.

What is mouth to lung inhaling

Mouth to lung inhaling, or mouth hits, or MTL is the way traditional smokers have always smoked.

The concept is simple, a smoker, using the mouth to lung technique is inhaling vapour into their mouth, and then breathing it into their lungs.

This MTL method of inhaling traditional cigarettes is because the filter needs more of a draw to pull the smoke through, and while the smoker keeps the pressure on drawing, they have to keep the smoke in their mouths before inhaling it into their lungs.

The degree of pressure when drawing on an electronic cigarette can be altered by adjusting the airflow, and although not as much pressure is required to vape, airflows can be adjusted to increase the pressure and the method when used in vaping remains the same.

What is direct lung inhaling

The direct lung technique is part of the evolution of vaping with regard to user preferences and new equipment, most particularly, sub-Ohm devices capable of producing more vapour.

Users wanting to create massive vapour clouds need to allow for more airflow to create more vapour, and mouth inhaling is more difficult to do with a looser airflow because you can’t hold all that vapour in your mouth, and therefore those users, known as cloud chasers, began to prefer direct lung inhaling to get their hit.

The difference in devices and setups

The most fundamental aspect of creating vapour is the tank and the heating coil inside it, and the liquid, which we will come to.

Tanks without an airflow control are best for mouth to lung inhaling.

Tanks with airflow can be used for either method. Keep the airflow fairly closed and use it for MTL, or open it up and let the air in and around the coil, and you’re setting-up for direct lung inhaling.

Liquid for mouth to lung inhaling

The traditional mouth to lung technique requires a standard e-liquid in the user’s preferred nicotine strength. By standard, we mean a liquid with, say, no more than 50% VG because otherwise is can often be too thick and clog the heating coil faster than one would like. 50% VG gives an average amount of flavour and vapour.

Liquid for direct lung inhaling

Direct lung inhaling requires more vapour to be produced and therefore requires a greater amount of VG. Say, anything from 60% VG content in the liquid as a minimum, but often anything up to 80-85% VG.

Direct lung vapers are usually using sub-Ohm heating coils (with a resistance of less than 1Ω), which means it’s getting hotter faster, and because of this, the nicotine hits far harder. The average nicotine for sub-Ohm (cloud chasing) vaping is 3mg although 6mg is still viable for some.

Vapour or flavour

Direct lung inhaling is for those who choose vapour production over flavour, because to make more vapour clouds you do have to forego some flavour.

Which one is for me

If the flavour of vaping is more important to you than making lots of clouds, then mouth to lung vaping is the right choice for you. Consider yourself a flavour seeker instead of a cloud chaser.

If producing masses of vapour along with the resulting hit is your preference, then direct lung inhaling is the right choice for you.

Why do coils get burnt

In order to avoid burning your coils, it helps to fully understand what’s happening when everything’s working just fine, and then what’s happening when things are not going according to plan and the coil is burning out and the liquid is tasting dreadful.

When everything’s working well, you press the fire button, the electricity from the battery makes its way to and through your coil and both the coil and the liquid get hot. The heat given off by the coil is absorbed by the surrounding e-liquid, a bit like the water in a kettle. The wicking inside the coil is completely saturated through and the liquid in the coil is heated to the point where it turns into vapour.

With sufficient liquid in the tank, each time you take a puff, there’s more liquid to absorb into the coil and the coil doesn’t get too hot because the newly absorbed liquid has a slightly cooling effect on the wicking inside the coil.

When the liquid in the wick has been vapourised, the wick dries out a little, but because you have a tank full of more liquid surrounding the coil, the liquid is constantly replacing itself and re-soaking the wick each time you take a puff.

But problems arise when there’s not enough liquid in the wick, or it isn’t being absorbed fast enough. When you press the fire button and the coil heats up, there isn’t much liquid there to take up the heat, and it becomes additional heat as there isn’t enough liquid to have any kind of cooling effect, in other words, the temperature of the coil increases abnormally. This then leads to horrid things happening because the liquid still in the wick gets too hot, “overcooked,” as it’s heated up excessively.

If you’re using cotton coils, this burning results in the production of formaldehyde, which tastes vile and it’s bad news to be inhaling it.

When there’s insufficient liquid in the wicking in the coil, the wick is directly exposed to the glowing-hot coil and it burns, and once it’s burnt it’s very probably ruined.

How to stop coils burning

1. Prime your coils:

If you don’t do this before you vape, especially if you just fill and fire, so-to-speak, you are very likely to completely ruin your coil and it will be of no use thereafter, and money down the drain. To do this all you have to do is install a new coil into your tank. For standard ecig coils, drip a couple of drops of eliquid directly into the hole in the top of the coil to help with saturation. If you’re using larger coils you can also add a couple of drops onto the exposed cotton through the holes around the coil. You will usually need to fill your tank to its fullest level, but just bear in mind there are one or two tanks such as the Joyetech eGo ONE VT atomizer where the manufacturer recommends leaving a small air pocket. Assume full (but not above the central airflow tube if you’re filling from the bottom) unless you know otherwise. Completely filling the tank will ensure that when the liquid enters the coil’s wicking area (where the cotton or absorbent material is situated), that a proper liquid level will be maintained during the priming process and the resulting vacuum can also play its part.  Screw everything back together securely but don’t over tighten and risk ruining the seals, and always ensure the seals are seated correctly to avoid damaging them. Let it sit for a few minutes to fully saturate, you can speed up the process by take a few LIGHT draws WITHOUT pressing the firing button; this will draw more liquid into the coil.

2. Keep your tank topped up

If the amount of liquid in the tank is low, or too low, there’s an increased risk that it isn’t sufficiently soaking into the wick inside the coil.

Sometimes this doesn’t matter too much, but on many coils these days, the liquid has to be at a certain level to reach all the wicking ports (the holes where you can see the wick inside the coil).

If the liquid can’t get in, there will be dry areas inside the coil, so take the time and trouble to keep your tank topped up as often as you can. If you notice the flavour going off, check your levels.

3. Use thinner e-liquid

There are two main base ingredients in e-liquid; one is called PG and the other VG. PG is thinner than VG, and therefore it soaks into the wick faster. This means that thicker juices with a higher ratio of VG, say 70% or more, can cause issues, certainly with standard coils but if you have a sub-Ohm coil, they are often designed for higher VG juice.

If you’re using high VG liquid and you’re having issues, try opting for a 50/50 blend, or even a 70% PG mix.

Just be aware that some coils, depending on their design, ie amount of holes, the position of them etc, wick better than others.

4. Reduce your power

If you have a variable device, one where you can adjust your power level, ie reduce your voltage/wattage, or temperature, be aware that the higher the output, the more liquid you vapourise each time you puff.

This comes back to supply and demand, liquid v coil/wick, if you’re vapourising the liquid at a rate faster than can be replenished into the wick, burning is just around the corner. In fact burning will happen quicker as a result of too much power heating the coil because it’s instant excessive heat.

The solution is to just reduce your power setting, especially if you notice the flavour fading.

If you look on your coil, there’s usually a voltage or wattage range written on it, often in very small writing. If it says, for example 10-14W, if you exceed 14W be mindful that you’re exceeding the limitations of that particular coil. You’re asking it to do a job it wasn’t designed for. It’s worth checking what other coils are compatible with your device because they will all have different voltage/wattage ranges.

5. Don’t chain vape

Over-vaping, ie continuous vaping can lead to diminished flavour and a burnt wick because the juice and saturation rate can’t keep up with your rate of vaping, and your wick is getting dryer, which is one step away from burning. Stop vaping or slow down. Give your coil time to recover.

6. You may need to change your e-liquid

Some e-liquid flavours have sweeteners that cause major problems with certain coils. This probably relates to the thicker higher VG juices but not always. You may find your coils clogging up very quickly and turning darker and darker in colour. Sometimes these very same liquids will render a coil useless in a day! 

Problems with electronic cigarette batteries

Battery is dead and doesn’t light up

Most standard electronic cigarette batteries are turned on and off with a 5 click function (5 clicks within 2 seconds). That means the clicks are quite fast and have to be very deliberate and this is part of their design to stop them being turned on without you realising.

The easiest way to do this is to count one, two, three etc and ensure you click 5 separate times otherwise the battery may not realise you have clicked 5 times.

The average electronic cigarette battery has a typical lifetime of 300 charges and this lifespan is significantly reduced if batteries are frequently recharged and in constant use.

These lithium ion e-cig batteries are also very sensitive to environmental conditions due to the micro technology inside them. Possible causes of a dead battery include contact problems, faulty battery, overuse, misuse, damage, environmental conditions and lifespan exceeded.

If you’re still stuck, the following options may help, however, depending on the issue you have, it’s often better just to get a new battery to be on the safe side.

  1. Place the battery in a room at a constant temperature for 24 hours (do not freeze or overheat).
  2. Try to charge the battery (ensure your charger works on other compatible batteries otherwise your charger could be the problem).
  3. If the battery charges, try attaching a different clearomizer/tank. If you still have the same problem, it’s likely that the battery is the cause of your trouble but you won’t know exactly what the problem with the battery is at this stage.
  4. When a battery is nearing the end of its life, you will still be able to charge it but it won’t necessarily be able to heat anything sufficiently.
  5. If the battery is faulty, has been overused, misused, damaged or its lifetime exceed it should not be used again, however, if you have no reason to suspect any of these issues the problem could be a poor connection between the battery contact and the clearomizer/tank contact points, as products can vary slightly and also sometimes the points can get pushed in too far when screwing things together.
  6. Take something like a wooden cocktail stick or piece of credit card (don’t use anything metal on the battery) and gently pry the centre contact up on both the atomizer/clearomizer and the battery as best you can. This is a fiddly job so take care not to force anything out of place. For 510 style atomizers/clearomizers with a protruding screw, unscrew it a little.

e-Liquid in the battery

If you get liquid in the battery it can become stuck in the on or off position rendering it unusable. The LED button often still pushes but liquid can still put it out of working order. You may find though that it starts to work again days later when it’s been allowed to dry out. Try tapping the battery gently onto a paper towel if you have excess liquid around the button. Don’t directly tap the button and especially not on a hard surface or you may damage it.

Good clean contact between your e-cig battery and clearomizer/tank is essential for the best heat, vapour and flavour, so regular cleaning is essential (every couple of weeks or so for example). Rubbing alcohol/surgical spirit on a Q tip/cotton bud is ideal.

Clean the outside of the connection/contact area and the inside too ensuring that you hold the battery upside down so gravity can take away any excess fluid. Paper towel can be used to dry the area if necessary.

For stubborn grime a cocktail stick is ideal for the threaded grooves, taking care not to break it off inside the battery, but don’t use anything metal. 

Battery won’t hold charge

Batteries have a limited life so they won’t last forever. Their lifetimes vary, on average about 300 charge/discharge cycles. However, if the battery is relatively new and it won’t hold its charge it is likely to be faulty or damaged.

Battery charges ok and the LED does glow when pressed but no vapour

Most likely to be related to the contact points between the battery and the atomizer or it could be the atomizer head/coil head. Try changing your coil.

Battery LED lights up but flashes when drawing

The cut-off point of an e-cig battery can be anything from 5 to 10 seconds depending on the item. This is a standard safety feature in that batteries are designed to cut out in order to prevent overheating.

Battery LED flashes 3 times

Certain batteries will flash 3 times to indicate a short circuit. Most standard e-cig batteries will have what’s called short circuit protection, so when there is a short and you press the fire button it will just blink 3 times and then won’t do anything.

Does it still blink 3 times with no tank? (remove the tank, ensure the battery is turned on and press the fire button to check).

If the LED still flashes 3 times without the clearomizer you know it’s something to do with the battery, if it only flashes when it’s connected to the clearomizer it could be the that there isn’t a good connection, or it could be the coil head.

If the clearomizer is screwed down too hard it can push the centre pin on the battery down just a tad and the connection is lost. Just check the battery isn’t screwed on too tight. Try backing it off a bit and see what happens.

Also try another coil in case that’s the problem, depending on what you’ve already discovered above.

If you are using a newer mod, then it will indicate a short circuit by saying short circuit on the screen.

Battery flashes rapidly but no vapour

The battery is low and needs to be recharged. Most standard e-cig batteries flash, generally rapidly, in an effort to let you know they’re running out of power.

If you are using a newer mod then you will be able to see the battery indicator getting low or it will just say low power.

Battery gets extremely hot when using or charging

This is a sign the battery has a serious problem. DON’T THROW IT IN THE BIN! Put the battery somewhere to cool down where it doesn’t pose a fire risk (a granite work top for example) and do not attempt to use this battery again.

Battery has green light when charging

Green is for charged so you don’t need to charge it any more. All batteries come part charged and you should be able to use them straight away without the need for immediate charging.

If you are using a newer mod then you will have a battery indicator to let you know what stage of charge you have.

Battery LED light is flashing green and red

The battery is near fully charged. It’s just letting you know it’s nearly charged.

Important notes about charging batteries

  • Always use the correct charger for the battery you are charging.
  • Never leave batteries unattended while charging, unplug before you go to bed or go out.
  • Don’t charge batteries on combustible surfaces such as carpets or surfaces that could be damaged by heat.
  • When the battery is fully charged unplug it.
  • Ideally let the battery rest for a few hours after charging.
  • Don’t let the battery drain of power completely, it’s recommended to recharge the battery when it is low on power, not totally empty.
  • Don’t leave the battery without any power at all when it’s not in use – this can result in a less usable battery.
  • Don’t heat or incinerate batteries.
  • Don’t charge damaged batteries.
  • If a battery becomes hot when you’re charging it, stop charging immediately and let it cool down before you handle it further.

How to store and look after your batteries

  • Storing batteries properly extends the life of the battery and keeps them from becoming a safety hazard.
  • Store batteries away from metal objects including items such as keys and coins (so avoid leaving them in your pocket).
  • Store batteries in a dry, cool place which is not subjected to extremes of temperature or humidity.
  • If you live in a hot location batteries can be stored in a refrigerator (but don’t freeze them).
  • If you do this, you must seal them in an airtight plastic bag to maintain the right moisture level.
  • When storing lithium batteries for a period of time, ideally leave them about 40% charged – this minimises degradation and allows the battery to slowly discharge itself, which is crucial for its operational health.
  • Always store batteries with the positive and negative terminals away from each other so they can’t begin conducting electricity idly.
  • Avoid storing new and old batteries together because there is a risk that the newer ones will conduct electricity into the older ones.
  • Dispose of batteries safely and in accordance with regulations (some local shops have recycling facilities now).