E-cigarette FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

On this page, we will try to answer the most frequently asked questions and give you a lot of tips and tricks for what you need to know when you start your new vaping life.

Best e-liquid for e-cig coils and PG and VG ingredients explained

If you are new to vaping, we understand that it is very confusing, but hopefully, this page will help you.

It may be necessary to have patience to experiment with different flavour experiences, and if you have a variable voltage/wattage or temperature control device, you will find that more or less power (heat) is required to get the best out of a particular e-liquid.

Achieving the best flavour mainly depends on the temperature the liquid (and flavours) are heated to, but different e-liquids can taste slightly different depending on the can taste slightly different depending on the coils you use. You might be disappointed with the flavour in one of your tanks, but it might taste good if you have another type you can try it with. you use. You might be disappointed with the flavour in one of your tanks, but it might taste good if you have another type you can try it with.

If you don't know which coil you have, you need to look closely at the coil (you may need a magnifying glass), as it is usually written on them in very small print. You are looking for something like 1.8 ohms.

Coils over 1.0 ohm

If you have just started vaping, and you are using a standard type coil, it is ideal to start with a 50/50 eliquid. When we say standard coil, we mean similar to Innokin T18 or T18E 1.5 ohm or 2.0 ohm, T18 or T18E 1.5 ohm or 2.0 ohm, Aspire Nautilus 1.8 ohm, Aspire BVC 1.8 ohm, various Nautilus 1.8 ohm, Aspire BVC 1.8 ohm, various Kanger coils 1.5 ohm, 1.8 ohm etc. 1.5 ohm, 1.8 ohm etc.

Coils less than 1.0 ohm (sub-Ohm)

Generally suitable for anything from 50% VG to max VG. The lower the coil's resistance, the more VG can be used. There isn't a single answer to this, although VG has a certain thickness, flavours have their own viscosity and optimal heating temperatures, so it's about experimenting until both you and your device are happy.

Which VG should I use in my e-liquid?

For 1.0 ohm coils, start with 50% VG and use it as a guide for next time.

For 0.8 / 0.6 ohm coils, start with 60% VG or 70% VG and use it as a guide.

For 0.5 ohm coils, start with 70% VG and use it as a guide.

Just try a small amount until you know how your coil/device handles your specific juice flavour/mix.

You should really look at the thicker (and often better) e-juices at this level to avoid leaks and performance.

Experiment until both you and your device are happy.

All e-liquid for sub-Ohm vaping

Remember, if you are not a sub-Ohm vaper, you will likely be disappointed if you buy thicker VG e-liquids because they are designed for sub-Ohm coils and their greater power and more heat. It is likely that you will not experience the same full flavour, for example, on a standard 1.8Ω coil.

Is your throat scratching?

The higher PG liquids usually have a sharper throat scratch. The 'kick' at the back of the throat is stronger in e-liquids that have more PG than VG, although it of course depends on the nicotine strength you choose.

The smooth feeling

E-liquid with a higher VG content tends to provide a smoother vape and less throat scratch. VG does not carry flavour as well as PG, but this can be countered by using more power to produce more vapour.

E-liquid blends

70% PG / 30% VG: This blend is higher in PG, and it is best for those who enjoy a more intense flavour and throat scratch with less to moderate vapour clouds.

50% PG / 50% VG: The middle ground between throat scratch and vapour.

70% VG / 30% PG: VG provides a smoother inhale with much more vapour.

Nicotine levels

0 mg / 0% – zero nicotine content, vaping for enjoyment not nicotine addiction

3 mg / 0.3% – either for very light smokers. People who smoke under 5 cigarettes a day. 

6 mg / 0.6% – for people who smoke between 5  10 cigarettes a day. 

9 mg / 0.9% – for people who smoke between 10 and 15 cigarettes a day. 

12 mg / 1.2% – for people who smoke between 15 & 20 cigarettes a day.

18 mg / 1.8% – for people who smoke 20+ standard cigarettes a day.

How much airflow should I set my e-cigarette to?

If you have a device with adjustable airflow, it helps to remember the following:

Larger airflow = more clouds (more vapour) 

Smaller airflow = fewer clouds (less vapour) = more flavour

With less airflow, you inhale a higher concentration of vaporised e-liquid. When you increase the air flowing through, the volume of vapour increases and usually reduces the flavour.

Sub ohm vaping

If you use sub-ohm coils (coils of less than 1.0 ohm), remember that you should use e-liquid with low nicotine strength and a higher VG. Remember, the greater the nicotine strength and the more PG in your liquid, the more likely the vapour will hit too hard for most vapers.

Avoid dry hits

When using cotton coils, it is very important to ensure that the coil is thoroughly saturated in e-liquid to avoid dry hits. (This prevents the cotton inside the coil from burning). Combustion releases unhealthy chemicals, like burnt toast, and although different chemicals are produced/released, none of them are considered good and should be avoided.

Main ingredients in e-liquid

There are various manufacturers of e-liquids with different ingredients and mixing ratios in their products. The most common base ingredients in e-liquid are propylene glycol (PG) and vegetable glycerin (VG). The base liquid is used to produce the vapour that resembles smoke, and it acts as a delivery medium to carry the flavour and nicotine. with different ingredients and mixing ratios in their products. The most common base ingredients in e-liquid are propylene glycol (PG) and vegetable glycerin (VG). The base liquid is used to produce the vapour that resembles smoke, and it acts as a delivery medium to carry the flavour and nicotine.

There are 3 main groups of ingredients:

– Base liquid (PG and/or VG)

– Nicotine

– Flavours (natural and artificial)

Here is a quick overview of propylene glycol versus vegetable glycerin: Propylene glycol (PG)

Propylene glycol provides the best throat hit and is thinner than vegetable glycerin. It does not form as thick vapour, but it does not leave as much residue as VG. This means that the atomiser or coil head (the part that gets hot and heats the liquid) does not need to work as hard, so it tends to last longer.

Vegetable glycerin (VG)

VG provides a sweeter vape that creates more vapour, and it has a thicker consistency. The advantage of using vegetable glycerin as the dominant base in e-liquid is because it provides a denser vapour, as it has a thicker composition.

VG tends to have a sweeter taste, but generally delivers less of a ‘throat hit’ than PG-based liquids. Users who like a thicker vapour often prefer VG-based liquids. VG, as the liquid is thicker, does not mean it is less likely to leak.

Top tip for the best flavour for vapers

If you are not quite getting what you want out of vaping and your e-liquid in terms of flavour, this page will give you some really useful tips.

Everyone seems to be talking about cloud chasing, but isn't flavour chasing just as important?

We hope here to help you find that amazing ‘sweet spot’.

E-liquids for the best flavour

Apart from the aroma in e-liquid, which usually won't be more than 10-15%, most e-liquids contain PG and VG in various amounts. These base liquids affect the thickness, taste, flavour, and throat hit. contain PG and VG in various amounts. These base liquids affect the thickness, taste, flavour, and throat hit.

This topic is covered extensively in one of our other articles on e-liquid blends, but here's a quick overview.

Sub-Ohm cloud-chasers tend to use high VG juice because they produce much more vapour, but these clouds are often produced at the expense of flavour.

VG, which gives the clouds, is almost tasteless and easy to vaporise, but it doesn't carry flavour as well as the thinner PG ingredient.

PG usually provides more flavour, but it is also responsible for more throat hit, so be aware to keep your nicotine low enough that the draw you get isn't too harsh on the throat.

A mix of 50/50, half and half, might be the ideal choice (for standard e-cig users), as it hits a spot between flavour and vapour, though again for standard users, and by that we mean those using something from a 1.5Ω – 2.5Ω coil in their e-cigarette, but consider 70% PG e-liquids for even more flavour.

Adjust the airflow for more flavour

Many vapers underestimate the importance of adjusting the airflow when it comes to flavour. Generally, when there is more air through the coil, the vapour is not as dense, but it will produce a load of vapour clouds, but this also diminishes the flavour.

Those of you chasing more flavour should try gradually closing off the airflow, provided you have one, not all devices have it. The less air that goes through allows for a denser and warmer vapour with more flavour.

If you close the airflow too much, it reduces the vapour, but it can also make it warmer than you want.

The type or design of airflow can affect the flavour

In addition to the amount of air flowing through, the placement of the airflow holes also makes a difference.

Air holes on many tanks allow air to the side of the coil, and that's perfectly fine, but it doesn't always work as well as air under the coil, which then has a direct path up to the mouthpiece and often enhances the flavour.

The wick's material in the coil makes a difference to the flavour

The wick's material and the wire inside the coil affect the flavour of your juice.

The coil is the small part inside the tank where the liquid is, and it has the task of heating up quickly when needed.

Silica material used to be the standard wick type inside a coil, but both cotton and ceramic wicks have now become popular as they help improve the flavour.

Also inside the coil, resting nicely and snugly with the wick, are different types of metal wires in various forms, including kanthal, stainless steel, nickel, and titanium.

Kanthal is still the most used wire, and it provides a good clean flavour.

With the introduction of temperature control comes, for example, Nickel (Ni200), stainless steel, and titanium. Nickel performs as well as Kanthal in flavour mode, but you may find certain stainless steel and titanium coils have a slight metallic taste.

Mouthpiece / drip tip style and size

The size and shape of your mouthpiece can make a difference to the flavour you experience, though less so than adjusting your airflow or your settings.

Those who want to produce vapour clouds tend to use mouthpieces with wide bores (larger / wider hole) designed to produce a more airy vape, which is good if you want more vapour and , which is good if you want more vapour and a cooler vape, but not if you want more flavour., but not if you want more flavour.

If you use a tank with a wide mouthpiece / drip tip, you can try switching it to a standard narrow bore to increase your flavour. Don't expect a massive difference, but it can make a difference.

Adjust your power settings if you have them

If you have a variable device of any kind, just adjusting your settings up or down is the simplest way to change the flavour of your e-liquid.

Since different flavours in your juice vaporise at different temperatures, you will find different elements of the flavour come out at different voltage / watt (or temperature) settings.

Your setting in conjunction with the electrical resistance of your coil dictates how fast and how hot the coil gets.

Always start with lower settings and work your way up until you reach what is called the 'sweet spot'.

All e-liquid flavours have their own unique sweet spot, so take your time to experiment when you start with new flavours.

It helps to start with e-liquid blends that are generally best suited to the type of coil in your tank, by which we mean choosing one that is not too thick if you use a standard coil, and if you use a sub-Ohm coil, avoid very thin liquids.

Some types of liquids can be really good at 30w, while others are already good at 20w. This 'trial and error' is part of what makes vaping fun!

If you have a temperature control device (with the appropriate coils for TC mode), you have an extra advantage because you can control the temperature, which means you control the temperature of the coil, and the heat in the coil affects the flavour.

Again, just experiment with your settings, by starting on the low side and working up towards finding 'the sweet spot'.

What is mouth to lung inhaling

Mouth to lung inhaling or mouth puffing or MTL is the way traditional smokers have always smoked.

The concept is simple, a smoker using the mouth to lung technique inhales vapour into the mouth and then breathes it into the lungs.

This MTL method of inhaling traditional cigarettes is because the filter needs more suction to draw smoke through, and while the smoker maintains the suction by puffing, they have to hold smoke in the mouth before inhaling it into the lungs.

The degree of suction when puffing on an electronic cigarette can be changed by adjusting the airflow, and although not as much suction is required to vape, the airflow can be adjusted to increase the suction, and the method, when applied to vaping, remains the same.

What is direct lung inhaling

The direct lung technique is part of the development of vaping in terms of user preferences and new equipment, and is particularly found in sub-Ohm devices capable of producing more vapour.

Vapers who want to create massive vapour clouds need the option for more airflow to create more vapour, and inhalation is harder to do with looser airflow because you can't hold all the vapour in your mouth, and therefore these vapers, known as cloud chasers, have begun to prefer direct lung inhalation to get their draw.

The difference in devices and setups

The most basic aspect of vapour formation is the tank and heating coil as well as the liquid, which we will get to.

Tanks without airflow control are best for mouth-to-lung inhalation.

Tanks with airflow can be used for both methods. Keep the airflow close to closed, and use it for MTL, or open it and let the air come in and around the coil, and you are ready for direct lung inhalation.

Liquid for mouth-to-lung inhalation

The traditional mouth-to-lung technique requires a standard e-liquid in the user's preferred nicotine strength. By standard, we mean a liquid with, for example, no more than 50% VG, because otherwise, it can often be too thick and clog the heating battery faster than desired. 50% VG gives an average amount of flavour and vapour.. By standard, we mean a liquid with, for example, no more than 50% VG, because otherwise, it can often be too thick and clog the heating battery faster than desired. 50% VG gives an average amount of flavour and vapour.

Liquid for direct lung inhalation

Direct lung inhalation requires more vapour to be produced and therefore requires a larger amount of VG. Say, anything from 60% VG content in the liquid as a minimum, but often something up to 80-85% VG.

Direct lung vapers usually use sub-Ohm heating coils (with a resistance of less than 1Ω), which means it gets hotter faster, and because of this, the nicotine hits much harder. The average nicotine for sub-Ohm (cloud chasing) vaping is 3 mg, although 6 mg still suits some fine.

Vapour or flavour

Direct lung inhalation is for those who choose vapour production over flavour because to create more vapour clouds you have to sacrifice flavour.

Which should I choose?

If the flavour of vaping is more important to you than making lots of clouds, mouth-to-lung vaping is the right choice for you. Consider yourself a flavour seeker rather than a cloud chaser.

If you prefer to produce masses of vapour along with the resulting draw, then direct lung inhalation is the right choice for you.

Why coils get burnt

To avoid burning your coils it helps to understand what happens when everything is working fine, and what happens when things don't go as planned, and the coil burns out, and the liquid tastes terrible. it helps to understand what happens when everything is working fine, and what happens when things don't go as planned, and the coil burns out, and the liquid tastes terrible.

When everything is working well, you press the fire button, the current from the battery finds its way to and through your coil, and both the coil and liquid get warm. The heat given off by the coil is absorbed by the surrounding e-liquid, just like water in a kettle. The wick in the coil is completely saturated, and the liquid in the coil is heated to the point where it turns into vapour. 

With sufficient liquid in the tank, more liquid is absorbed into the coil each time you take a puff, and the coil does not get too hot because the newly absorbed liquid has a slight cooling effect on the moisture spread inside the coil.

But problems arise when there is not enough liquid in the wick, or if it is not absorbed quickly enough. When you press the fire button, and the coil becomes hot, there is not much liquid there to absorb the heat, and it becomes extra hot, as there is not enough liquid to have any form of cooling effect, in other words, the temperature of the coil rises abnormally. This then leads to the liquid that is still in the wick becoming too hot, "overcooked", as it is heated too much.

If you use cotton coils, this burning results in the production of formaldehyde, which tastes disgusting.

When there is not sufficient liquid in the wick in the coil, the wick is directly exposed to the glowing hot coil, and it burns, and once it is burned, it is likely destroyed.

How to stop coil burning

1. Prime your coils:

If you do not do this before you vape, especially if you just fill and fire, so to speak, you are very likely to completely destroy your coil, and it will be of no use thereafter and money down the drain. To do this, just install a new coil in your tank. With standard ecig coils, you drip a few drops of e-liquid directly into the hole at the top of the coil to help with saturation.

If you use larger coils, you can also add a few drops onto the exposed cotton through the holes around the coil. You will usually need to fill your tank to its full level, but remember, there are one or two tanks, such as Joyetech eGo ONE VT atomizer, where the manufacturer recommends leaving a small air pocket. Assume full (but not over the central airflow tube, if you fill from the bottom), unless you know otherwise., you can also add a few drops onto the exposed cotton through the holes around the coil. You will usually need to fill your tank to its full level, but remember, there are one or two tanks, such as Joyetech eGo ONE VT atomizer, where the manufacturer recommends leaving a small air pocket. Assume full (but not over the central airflow tube, if you fill from the bottom), unless you know otherwise.

A complete filling of the tank will ensure that when the liquid enters the coil's moisture area (where cotton or absorbent material is located), a correct liquid level is maintained during the priming process, and the resulting vacuum can also play its role. Screw everything back together, but do not tighten too much, as you risk damaging the seals, and always ensure that the seals are seated correctly to avoid damaging them. Let it sit for a few minutes to fully saturate, you can speed up the process by taking a few light draws WITHOUT pressing the fire button; this draws more liquid into the coil. pressing the fire button; this draws more liquid into the coil.

2. Keep the tank filled up

If the amount of liquid in the tank is low or too low, there is an increased risk that it will not soften sufficiently in the wick inside the coil.

Sometimes it does not matter too much, but on many coils these days, the liquid needs to be at a certain level to reach all the moisturizing ports (the holes where you can see the wick inside the coil). these days, the liquid needs to be at a certain level to reach all the moisturizing ports (the holes where you can see the wick inside the coil).

If the liquid cannot get in, there will be dry areas inside the coil, so take the time and trouble to keep your tank filled as often as you can. If you notice that the flavour disappears, check your levels.

3. Use thinner e-liquid

There are two main base ingredients in e-liquid; one is called PG and the other VG. PG is thinner than VG, and therefore it soaks in faster into the wick. This means that thicker juice with a higher ratio of VG, e.g. 70% or more, can cause problems, certainly with standard coils, but if you have a sub-Ohm coil, they are often designed for higher VG juice.

If you use high VG liquid, and you have problems, you can try opting for a 50/50 mix or even a 70% PG mix.

Be aware that some coils, depending on their design, i.e. the number of holes, the placement of them, etc., wick better than others.

4. Reduce your wattage

If you have a variable device where you can adjust your power level, i.e. reduce your voltage/wattage, or temperature, be aware that the higher the output, the more liquid you vaporise each time you puff.

This comes back to supply and demand, liquid vs coil/wick, if you vaporise the liquid at a rate faster than it can be replenished in the wick, burning is just around the corner. In fact, burning will happen faster as a result of too much power heating the coil, because it is instant excessive heat.

The solution is to reduce your power setting, especially if you notice that the flavour is fading.

If you look at your coil, there is usually a voltage or wattage range written on it, often in very small print. If it says, for example 10-14W, if you exceed 14W, you should be aware that you are exceeding the limits for that coil. You are asking it to do a job it was not designed for. It is worth checking which other coils are compatible with your device, because they all have different voltage/wattage ranges.

5. Avoid chain vaping

Over-vaping, i.e., continuous vaping can lead to decreased flavour and a burnt wick, because the juice and saturation rate cannot keep up with your vaping speed, and your wick becomes drier, which is a step closer to burning. Stop vaping or slow down. Give your coil time to recover.

6. You may need to change your e-liquid

Some e-liquid flavours have sweeteners that cause major problems with certain coils. This likely concerns the thicker higher VG juices, but not always. You may find your coils clogging very quickly and becoming darker and darker in colour. Sometimes the same liquids will render a coil useless in a day!

Problems with electronic cigarette batteries

The battery is dead and does not light up

Most standard electronic cigarette batteries are turned on and off with a 5-click function (5 clicks within 2 seconds). This means the clicks are quite quick and need to be very deliberate, and this is part of their design to prevent them from turning on without you realising it.

The easiest way to do this is to count one, two, three, etc. And ensure that you click 5 separate times, otherwise the battery might not realise that you have clicked 5 times.

The average electronic cigarette battery has a typical lifespan of 300 charges, and this lifespan is significantly reduced if batteries are often charged and are in constant use.

These lithium-ion e-cig batteries are also very sensitive to environmental conditions due to the microtechnology inside them. Possible reasons for a dead battery include contact issues, faulty battery, overuse, abuse, damage, environmental conditions, and lifespan exceeded.

If you are still stuck, the following options may help, but depending on the problem you have, it is often better just to get a new battery to be on the safe side.

Options:

• Place the battery in a room at a constant temperature for 24 hours (do not freeze or overheat).
• Try charging the battery (ensure that your charger works on other compatible batteries, otherwise your charger might be the problem).
• If the battery charges, you can try connecting another clearomizer/tank. If you still have the same problem, it is likely that the battery is the cause of your issues, but you do not know exactly what the problem with the battery is at this stage.
• When a battery approaches the end of its lifespan, you can still charge it, but it will not necessarily be able to heat anything sufficiently.
• If the battery is faulty, has been overused, abused, damaged, or its lifespan is longer, it should not be used again, but if you have no reason to suspect any of these issues, the problem may be a poor connection between the battery contact and clearomizer/tank contact points, as products can vary slightly, and also sometimes the points can be pushed too far in when screwed together.
• Take something like a wooden cocktail stick or a piece of credit card (do not use any metal on the battery) and gently bend the centre contact up on both the atomizer/clearomizer and the battery as best you can. This is a delicate job, so be careful not to force anything out of place. For atomizers/ clearomizers in 510 style with a protruding screw, unscrew it a little.

e-liquid in the battery

If you get liquid in the battery, it can get stuck in the on or off position, making it unusable. The LED button often still pushes, but liquid can still render it non-functional. The battery might start working again a few days later once it has dried out. Try gently tapping the battery on a paper towel if you have excess liquid around the button. Do not press directly on the button, especially not on a hard surface, as you might damage it.

Good clean contact between your e-cig battery and clearomizer/tank is crucial for the best heat, vapour, and flavour, so regular cleaning is important (e.g., every couple of weeks). Rubbing alcohol/surgical spirit on a Q-tip/cotton bud is ideal.

Also clean the outside of the connection/contact area and the inside, ensuring the battery is upside down so gravity can remove any excess liquid. A paper towel can be used to dry the area if necessary.

For stubborn dirt, a cocktail stick is ideal for threaded grooves, and be careful not to break it off inside the battery, but do not use any metal.

The battery does not hold the charge

Batteries have a limited lifespan, so they do not last forever. Their lifespan averages about 300 charge/discharge cycles. However, if the battery is relatively new and it does not hold the charge, it is likely defective or damaged.

The battery charges okay, and the LED lights when pressed, but no vapour

Most likely related to the contact points between the battery and the atomizer, or it could be the atomizer head/coil head. Try changing your coil.

Battery LED lights up but flashes

The cut-off point for an e-cig battery can be anything from 5 to 10 seconds depending on the item. This is a standard safety feature as the batteries are designed to cut out to prevent overheating.

Battery LED flashes 3 times

Certain batteries flash 3 times to indicate a short circuit. Most standard e-cig batteries have what is called short circuit protection, so when there is a short and you press the power button, it just flashes 3 times and then does nothing.

Does it still flash 3 times without the tank? (remove the tank, ensure the battery is on, and press the power button to check).

If the LED still flashes 3 times without the clearomizer, you know it is something to do with the battery; if it only flashes when connected to the clearomizer, it might be that there is not a good connection, or it could be the coil head.

If the clearomizer is screwed down too tightly, it can push the centre pin on the battery just a little down, and the connection is lost. Check that the battery is not screwed too tightly. Try unscrewing it a little and see what happens.

Also try another coil if that is the problem, depending on what you have already discovered above.

If you are using a newer mod, it will indicate a short circuit by saying short circuit on the screen.

The battery flashes quickly, but no vapour

The battery is low and needs recharging. Most standard e-cig batteries usually flash quickly in an attempt to tell you they are running out of power.

If you are using a newer mod, you might see the battery indicator getting low, or it says low power.

The battery becomes extremely hot when you use or charge it

This is a sign that the battery has a serious problem. Do not throw it in the rubbish bin! Place the battery somewhere to cool down where it does not pose a fire risk (e.g. a granite countertop), and refrain from using this battery again.

The battery lights green when charging

Green is meant for charging, so you do not need to charge it anymore. All batteries are partially charged, and you should be able to use them immediately without the need for immediate charging.

If you use a newer mod, you have a battery indicator that tells you what charging stage you are at.

The battery's LED light flashes green and red

The battery is almost fully charged. It tells you that the battery is nearly charged.

Important notes on charging batteries

• Always use the correct charger for the battery you are charging.
• Never leave batteries unattended while charging, unplug before going to bed or going out.
• Do not charge batteries on flammable surfaces such as carpets or surfaces that can be damaged by heat.
• Remove the battery when it is fully charged.
• Ideally, let the battery rest for a few hours after charging.
• Do not let the battery run completely out of power, it is recommended to recharge the battery when it is low, not completely empty.
• Do not leave an empty battery when not in use – this can result in a less usable battery.
• Do not heat or burn batteries.
• Do not charge damaged batteries.
• If a battery becomes hot when you charge it, stop charging immediately and let it cool down before handling it further.

How to store and care for your batteries

• Storing batteries correctly extends battery life and prevents them from becoming a safety risk.
• Keep batteries away from metal objects including items like keys and coins (so avoid leaving them in your pocket).
• Store batteries in a dry, cool place that is not exposed to extreme temperatures or humidity.
• If you live in a hot place, batteries can be stored in the refrigerator (but do not freeze them).
• If you do this, seal them in an airtight plastic bag to maintain the correct moisture level.
• When storing lithium batteries for a period, ideally leave them about 40% charged – this minimises degradation and allows the battery to discharge slowly, which is crucial for its operational health.
• Always store batteries with the positive and negative terminals away from each other, so they cannot start conducting electricity idly.
• Avoid storing new and old batteries together, because there is a risk that the newer ones will conduct electricity to the older ones.
• Dispose of batteries safely and in accordance with regulations (some local shops have recycling facilities).

If you still have problems, do not hesitate to contact us at mail@esug.dk